Showing posts with label Top Chef. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Top Chef. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

The Journey Ends With Bourdain: We're Not Worthy, Part 2

(**Semi-spoiler alert for any of you who intend to see Bourdain on his Medium Raw tour. Proceed at your own risk.**)

My journey continues and ends here.

The setting was perfect: I fucking love Royce Hall. I remember falling in love with its majestic beauty as a prospective freshman way back in the day, its soaring towers and romanesque arches calling out to me: "Study here, study here..." And so I did. Interestingly enough, it was in my favorite class in my entire experience at UCLA--in a seminar I took my final quarter called History 197K: Asian American Food, History and Culture with Dr. Valerie Matsumoto--that the idea about writing about food came to me. We had multi-faceted discussions about food during our weekly 3 hour seminars and were assigned weekly writing assignments and term papers where we had to explore and analyze menus, family gatherings and cultural food phenomenons. Needless to say, I got an "A."

"You know," Dr. Matsumoto once told me, "you should really consider publishing some of your writing one day. Maybe a collection of short essays about food?" Unfortunately, the information superhighway and blogs weren't as widely available back in the 90's. But it was partly this class and my professor's encouragement and that led me to start Daily Gluttony and become so interested in food culture and food writing in the first place. It was how I came to discover and appreciate food-centric literature including Bourdain's. Seeing Tony Bourdain speak at that same hall that sucked me into becoming a Bruin 20 years ago made me feel like I had come full circle. It was truly magical.

I think I felt my heart skip a beat and a female version of Wayne & Garth's "schwing" when Bourdain--expectedly tall and lanky, wearing a black sportscoat, jeans and tan cowboy boots--took the stage. He started the show talking about food shows and celebrity food personalities. He spared Rachael Ray of too much trash talking because she sent him a fruit basket, but wasn't so nice to everyone's favorite Semi-Ho, Sandra Lee. "Such is the mesmerizing power of pure evil!" Take a look (apologies for the amateur Blair-Witchy footage. My hands were shaky from excitement):



He did a spot-on impersonation of Ina Garten swooning over her dearest Jeffrey, and discussed his admiration for Bizarre Foods' Andrew Zimmern being able to eat animal testicles and scrotums and such day after day without drinking. He likened the reason that people keep watching the Man vs. Food dude stuff his piehole week after week to the reason why people kept watching Siegfried & Roy: we simply keep hoping that the show we're watching is the one in which they're going to die. (Insert LOL here.)

But the part of his show where I nearly choked on my cough drop was when he talked about his experience as a guest judge on Top Chef and when he had to eliminate Dale Talde for his Butterscotch Miso Scallops, a dish he compared to "f*lching Mrs. Buttersworth." Ex-squeeze me? Baking powder? Oh yes, Bourdain did go there. And just as we thought it couldn't get any raunchier than that, Bourdain stopped dead in his tracks, looked over at the spotlighted sign language interpreter sitting in the front and said, "Wait, I wanna know how he does 'f*lching!'" I wasn't able to catch the sign, but needless to say, the interpreter's face turned beet red as the audience roared with laughter.

Bourdain talked about being a daddy to his 3 year old daughter and how being responsible with food is just as important to him now as how good the food tastes. He's seriously concerned about the current state of food processing and fast food: we shouldn't have to worry about whether or not our work area is sanitized with bleach after grinding meat. Nor should we have to worry about giving our children grey, ammonia-laced discs of hamburger meat. It's something that as a parent of a toddler, I lose sleep over every once in awhile too. But fortunately for us parents, Bourdain has the perfect solution: scare kids into never eating from "The Clown, The King or The Colonel." I am totally going to follow his advice and tell Mini Gluttony that eating McDonalds will give him cooties.

He also gave advice on how to be a good traveler; that basically, if you're fortunate enough to find yourself in a place like Thailand, there's no reason you should be going to Starbucks and Planet Hollywood. Go where the locals go and eat what the locals eat--your chances of getting food poisoning is much greater if you eat at the buffet at your major chain hotel than if you eat from the guy hacking up a pig and cooking it up in the back of a van. Asphinctersayswhat? What?!? You heard me. Don't be afraid of street food. Because chances are that the dude preparing that spaghetti bolognese at your chain hotel doesn't give a crap about the food he's preparing. The dude in the back of the van, however, is more likely to be passionate about the food he's making. It's a specialty that he's been been cooking up for the same people in the same neighborhood for God-knows-how-long.

He stressed the importance of being polite to one's hosts when traveling, that if his hosts happened to be serving up puppy heads, he would rather eat the puppy heads than risk offending his hosts. He asked us to compare it to being at our grandma's house. Grandma might serve up some fucked up shit, but we take it with a smile. Why? To quote Bourdain, "It's your fucking grandmother's house."

Bourdain did a Q&A with the audience for the last part of his show in which lots and lots of people lined up at the two microphones they had set up on each level of the auditorium. Bourdain ran out of time before he could even get to half of those lined up, but we did learn alot more interesting facts about our favorite badboy food celebrity:

-His "last meal" used to be roasted bone marrow. Now it is sea urchin with a thin layer of lardo from Marea.

-Singapore Airline's food is about as good as airline food can get.

-His worst memory from No Reservations is the massage at the Uzbekistan bath house.

-Two countries he thinks that more people should visit are Vietnam and Colombia.

-He thinks that New York has an edge over LA when it comes to high end cuisine, but where LA has an edge over New York is its "low end, ethnicky stuff." He'd love to spend time exploring Jonathan Gold's food finds.

-He adores Mario Batali but thinks his PBS show "Spain...On the Road Again" is a total crock because he's traveling with Gwyneth Paltrow, a vegetarian, to a place that probably has the best pork on the planet.

-When asked "Lakers or Celtics," he had to choose Lakers simply because he's a Yankees fan and could not root for anything Boston. (Probably the only part of the show I booed under my breath at since I am not a fan of LA's precious purple and gold. Yeah, whatever.)

-When asked if Giada or Nigella would win in a knife fight, he answered without hesitation: "Nigella."

I wish I could have afforded to shell out $175 for a VIP ticket to meet and get a picture with my food idol. Those special peeps even got a backstage pass looking thing that they could wear around their necks on a lanyard just like Wayne and Garth did when they met Alice Cooper backstage. That's OK though; it was a dream come true even being in the same room as Bourdain. The buildings of Royce Quad glowed against the black sky as we left my alma mater, and I immediately felt inspired...

...to read.

To write.

To cook.

To eat.

To laugh.

To be a better parent.

To appreciate more.

We're not worthy, Tony Bourdain. We are so not worthy.



If you who missed Bourdain speak at UCLA, don't fret. He will be doing another speaking engagement at the Cerritos Center for the Performing Arts on February 18, 2011. Tickets and info are available here.

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Getting Along At The Gorbals, Downtown LA

In an age where meeting new people is as easy as walking your dog, feeding your baby at the Nordstrom Women's Lounge, or starting a food blog, the number of friends, acquaintances, and internet chat buddies you have in your life suddenly becomes a little overwhelming. And to be perfectly honest, as much as I usually like the people I've met in my lifetime, I tend to like some more than others.

I recently thought long and hard about what the common thread is amongst the people who I get along with the best. And that common thread is simply...

...that the people I tend to get along with the best are not uptight.

People who are open minded, people who love to laugh and who can laugh about others as well as themselves--those are my peeps.

So it was completely appropriate that I met up with WeezerMonkey, yutjangsah, and The Delicious Life--a few of LA's most un-uptight local food bloggers--at Ilan Hall's most un-uptight new Downtown Los Angeles restaurant, The Gorbals.

One might have expected the atmosphere and surrounding environments of a Top Chef Season 2 winner's restaurant to lean somewhat on the swankier, more upscale side, but The Gorbals is quite the contrary. I had to Austin Powers my way out of the bordering-on-sketchy underground parking garage when its valet attendants were too busy trying to cram a car inside a freight elevator to acknowledge me. I finally made may way to the restaurant, located in the dingy lobby of the Alexandra Hotel, a historic hotel-turned-affordable housing complex. The stark rectangular space is, with its few wood and steel accents, minimalist-cool on one hand, and with its rows of wooden tables, a bit reminiscent of a dining hall on the other.

And if the setting wasn't enough to get that stick out of your ass, the food at The Gorbals just might be that extra pull you need. Named after a neighborhood in Glasgow, Scotland were Hall's father grew up, The Gorbals' menu draws inspiration from that neighborhood's post-war culture, where poor immigrants of varying ethnicities lived and ate. Hall created his menu, therefore, to know no boundaries, ethnicities or labels: it's "a spot for new and diverse ideas" and "tasty, oddball food that is there for anyone who is willing to eat something that does not fall into a category."

The restaurant's bacon-wrapped matzo balls with horseradish mayonnaise are probably the best example of Chef Hall's playful tribute to both the Kosher and the non-Kosher. This edible oxymoron was, from what I've heard, something the chef originally created as a joke for a non-Kosher Jewish friend's birthday party. I liked this dish, not only because I am usually a fan of bacon-wrapped anything, but mainly because of the sense of humor behind its concept. Hey, what can I say? I'm a rebel by old school Chinese standards myself.

Manischewetz-braised pork belly with clapshot and apples would also normally be a big no-no in Kosher circles, but leave it to Chef Hall to combine the two into a creation where pork and the Jewish faith can hold hands and coexist in peace. Not the best pork belly dish I've had around town (hint: Animal) but this version certainly works. And the Manischewetz reduction was quite tasty.

Butternut squash latkes with chestnut cream were a welcome alternative to traditional potato latkes, the light-as-a-feather chestnut cream being the star of the show here. Yutjangsah liked them so much that she'd eat Ding Dongs stuffed with this. We also told the chef that we really liked his cream and he told us it was really easy to make. Wait, that didn't come out right, did it?

Octopus with gizzards and lemon is a dish that would normally be right up my alley--I love chewy-tasties! Yutjangsah and The Delicious had already ordered this prior to my and WeezerMonkey's arrival and unfortunately, it had gotten a little cold and glazed over by the time I sampled. I'd totally love to try it fresh out of the kitchen next time.

Sweet oxtail buns with turnip pickles were this particular restaurant's version of everyone's obligatory slider. These were a little reminiscent of Manwich served on King's Hawaiian Rolls, which would normally be totally fine if they weren't one of the priciest options on that night's menu at $15.

Worcestershire sauce-spiked Welsh rarebit with fried egg was something I could probably eat for breakfast everyday if I wasn't fearful of food coma, clogged arteries and weighing 300 pounds.

Roasted marrow with king oyster mushrooms and walnuts was a tasty treat; I loved the acidic bite of the mushrooms against the velvety richness of the marrow. There was also bread to sop everything up. Genius.


Some of the wacky topics of conversation I had with the girls up to this point included white meat vs. dark meat chicken and earwax. I won't go into details but it was damn funny.

See, even Chef Hall is getting in on the humor. Here he is about to serve us our Gribenes sandwich:

Yes, the Gribenes sandwich. Chicken skin, lettuce (well, in this case arugula) and tomato nestled between rye bread and you've got yourself a "GLT." Need I say more?

I have to admit that it wasn't love at first bite with the Gribenes; I was a little concerned about the binding ability of the cold rye against the tower of ingredients, but a couple more bites and I was hooked. Chicken skin crack.

Apparently, the gribenes wasn't the only crack in the Gorbals that evening...

I really wanted to like our dessert more since I've heard good things, but I just wasn't thrilled with our sticky toffee pudding, nutella-buttermilk ice cream with maldon salt. Perhaps it was an off night, but whatever the case, our toffee pudding was dry and the ice cream lacked a little j'ne sais quoi, which is just fancy talk for a little somethin' somethin'. I'd love to give it another shot however.

We ran into H.C. of LA and OC Foodventures and mooched off his Israeli couscous, pumpkin ice cream and bacon brittle dessert, which to me was like a cross between oatmeal and tapioca pudding. Just OK, but I thought the bacon brittle was really cool.

Being relatively new, I think The Gorbals has a little bit to go in finding its groove, but nevertheless, I had quite the enjoyable dining experience. From the wacky, sacriligious, but tasty-for-the-most-part food to Chef Hall's down-to-earth personality to planning a boba/legal/mani-pedi/dry cleaning truck with some awesome bloggers, it was all good. If you're one of those stuffy, upturned-nose kind of people, though, this isn't the place for you.


The Gorbals
501 South Spring Street
Los Angeles, CA 90013
(213) 488-3408
www.thegorbalsla.com

Gorbals on Urbanspoon

Saturday, July 4, 2009

To All The Bites I've Loved Before: Ludo Bites at Breadbar, Los Angeles

If you ask me, Ludo Bites, the latest restaurant concept from Chef Ludo Lefebvre, is kinda like that hot guy who sublet a room in your neighbor's house for the summer. He's pretty much the perfect man because he's super sexy, super smart, has classic features but with a rockstar edge, has tons of personality and best of all knows how to show you a good time. Problem is, he's only here for a few months so you have to get it while you can.

Until August 22, this "guerilla style pop-up restaurant event" is taking place every Tuesday through Sunday night at Third Street's Breadbar, a bakery-cafe that's normally only open for breakfast and lunch. It's a business model that's cost effective for all parties involved while also pulling in additional revenue, thereby allowing diners to experience high end food at lower prices. That's where smart comes in.

Now as for the sexy-awesome-personality-and-showing-me-a-good-time part, well let's talk food, shall we? At Ludo Bites, Chef Ludo Lefebvre creates food with so much personality that they may as well be men.

Several nights ago I was introduced to eleven of them. And I had all eleven in the same night--something which might normally make me feel like I was being a bad, bad DG but since they're not here for long I felt every desire to indulge.

Deconstructed Bloody Mary, you are hot blooded but the fact that your spicy tomato puree, vodka gelee, celery mousse are served in deconstructed mode leads me to think that your bark is worse than your bite and that you're more cool than you let on to be. Oh yeah, and your little bits of vodka gelee felt really good on my tongue...which is always a good thing.

Tuna Sashimi with Sushi Rice Ice Cream, Fried Onions, and Shichimi Togarashi, you'd think I'd know you, because everyone and their mom has had tuna sashimi with fried onions and some kinda sesame soy sauce. And I like that and all, but you really had me fooled with that sushi rice ice cream. A tad skeptical, I thought to myself, Is he pretending to be something that he's not? But no, turns out that you're creative, imaginative, and a little complex. It works with you.

Sweet and Sour Shrimp with Rosemary and Lemon Zest, you're a nice balance of both nice (sweet) and sarcastic (sour) and once you take off that marmaladey cloak, you reveal a body that's plump yet still firm and meaty. You were so damn huggable but I wasn't even able to touch you all that much since I was instructed to have you in just one bite.

King Red Salmon with Smoked Vinegar, Watermelon and Mint, I wasn't able to get to know you all that well either since you were a one bite kind of guy with your salmon roe topping and all. And how sweet of you to come bearing a watermelon and mint gift for me...but only after having you. I liked you, but I can't be bought, so I'm not sure if there'll be a next time.

Chilled Chorizo Soup with Onions and Cornichon Ice, you're a bit of a jokester, aren't you? You mean you didn't puree Nacho Cheese Doritos? I say coyly, twisting my hair and batting my (non-existent) eyelashes. Youre smooth, and your sense of humor is addicting.

Foie Gras Tart with Mushrooms, Lemon Paste, Mushrooms, and Truffle Oil, fucking-a you rocked my world. Your foie gras, raw mushroom and truffle oil combo is simply luscious and goes reaaaal deep but is subtle enough not to be overkill. I also love me a down-to earth guy who's a little sweet (maple tart crust) and a little feisty (lemon paste). If there's such a thing as love at first bite, this would be it.

Diver Scallop with Port, Bacon, Onion and Creme Fraiche Foam, hawt damn you had a perfect body and I mean PER-fect body but unfortunately that's about it. You tried really hard with that pink foamy emulsion, but I've come to see that you're all brawn and no brain.

Tonnato-Style Halibut with Spiced Butter, Porcini and Wilted Lettuce, you struck me as really, really smart. Halibut's kind of a safe choice, so you're not edgy in any particular way, but everything you showed me was done with precision and lots of care. Tell you what, though...I do find nerds sexy.

Almond Brittle-Crusted Duck with Crispy Skin Puree, Tapenade and Turnip, you too had a perfect body, but I couldn't really figure you out. Your turnip's tough exterior made me feel like it was hard to get through to you but I also got hints of an overly sweet crust. And your tapenade just didn't pique my interest enough. But we can still hang out, if anything for that perfectly cooked body on you.

Mr. Cheese Course, you're a super sensitive emotional rollercoaster with your pungent valdeon bleu cheese one minute and your outrageously smooth affinois the next. Despite being a little moody (umm, you showed me five that night to be exact) your housemade fruit and nut accompaniments showed that you seek balance in your life amongst all that passion. I actually think sensitive is sexy; hopefully the fact that the etorki and date puree pairing made me purr is enough evidence.

Panna Cotta with Caviar and Caramel, I couldn't keep my eyes (or my mouth for that matter) off your glistening dark skin. But what I love about you most of all is that you're a regular fun loving guy who pops Milk Duds at the movie theatre, but you're also a classy gourmand who loves his caviar.

The night came to an end and suddenly my love affair with these eleven was over. And just like that neighbor's hot subleter, they'll one day be gone. I don't know where your aspirations will take you next Ludo Bites, but I'll be back for more.

Thanks to FoodDigger for hosting this wonderful dinner, to Chef Ludo and wife Kristine for the amazing food, hospitality and service, and to all of the above for letting me be a total food ho at Ludo Bites.

There. I admitted it. I was a ho.

And I liked it.

Ludobites at BreadBar
8718 W. 3rd St.
Los Angeles, CA 90048
(310) 205-0124
Every Tues-Sun through August 22
http://www.ludolefebvre.com/ludo-bites/

My fellow hos from that delicious evening:
Gastronomy Blog
Diana Takes A Bite
Teenage Glutster
Kung Food Panda
KevinEats
Alli411
Two Hungry Pandas
Grubtrotters
Gourmet Pigs
Yutjangsah

Ludo Bites at Breadbar in Los Angeles

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Top Chef's Fabio Viviani: Rant? Or Crave?

I have to admit that when I first started watching Top Chef Season 5: New York, this guy bugged the crap out of me with his too-suave-for-you accent-laced cheesy-sleaziness. But as I kept watching, the Italian chef from Moorpark, CA, grew on me. No wait, take that back. It was all the funny shit that came out of his mouth that grew on me. That, and the fact that he hates cilantro too.

Recite the following Fabio-isms in your best Italian accent. I guarantee a few chuckles.

"I am 30 years old and I have to sleep in the bunky bed."

“Kind of reminds me of a porn movie.”

"But I'm a chef. There's nothing that can stress me out. If they gonna give me monkey ass to fill with fried banana, I'll come up with something anyway. It's not a problem."

"We can serve monkey ass in empty clam shell and win 'cause I'm working the front of the house."

"This is Top Chef not Top Scallop!"

"Next time I'm gonna do a piece of toast, a bacon, and some bullshit eggs on it... and i'll probably be one of the top three."

"My car is a piece of...............poop."

"Hospital? I'll chop it off and sear it on the flat top so it doesn't bleed any more and tomorrow I will deal with nine finger."

"I got so many kick in my ass that sometime when I'm in the bathroom I still pull shoes out of my ass."

And my all time favorite:

"This is Top Chef, not Top Pussy!"

Ahhh, so sad to see you pack your knives and go, Fabio.

(Photo credit: Bravo TV/Michael Lavine)
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